Helena Rubinstein

Helena Rubinstein
Rayuwa
Cikakken suna	Chaja Rubinstein
Haihuwa	Kraków (mul) , 25 Disamba 1872
ƙasa	Tarayyar Amurka Kingdom of Galicia and Lodomeria (en)
Mutuwa	New York, 1 ga Afirilu, 1965
Makwanci	Mount Olivet Cemetery (en)
Karatu
Harsuna	Turanci
Sana'a
Sana'a	business magnate (en) , mai kwalliya, ɗan kasuwa, art collector (en) , philanthropist (en) da aesthetician (en)

Helena Rubinstein (an haife ta Chaja Rubinstein ; Disamba 25, 1872 - Afrilu 1, 1965) 'yar kasuwa ce 'yar Poland, mai tattara fasaha, kuma mai taimakon jama'a. 'Yar kasuwa ce ta kayan kwalliya, ita ce ta kafa kuma ta yi wa kamfanin kayan kwalliya na Helena Rubinstein Incorporated lakabi, wanda ya sanya ta zama ɗaya daga cikin mata mafi arziki a duniya.

Rayuwar farko

Gidan haihuwar Helena Rubinstein (kore) a gundumar Kazimierz ta Kraków

Rubinstein ita ce babbar 'ya'ya mata takwas da aka haifa wa Yahudawan Poland, "Augusta" Gitte (Gitel) Shaindel Rubinstein née Silberfeld da Naftoli Hertz "Horace" Rubinstein. Mahaifinta mai shago ne a Kraków, Lesser Poland, wanda a lokacin Austria-Hungary ke mamaye shi bayan rabuwar Poland a ƙarshen ƙarni na 18. Masanin falsafar rayuwa Martin Buber ɗan uwanta ne. Ita kuma 'yar uwan mahaifiyar Ruth Rappaport ce.

Matsar zuwa Ostiraliya

Bayan ta ƙi amincewa da auren da aka shirya mata, Rubinstein ta yi ƙaura daga Poland zuwa Ostiraliya a shekarar 1896, ba tare da kuɗi ba kuma ba ta da ƙwarewar yaren Ingilishi sosai. Duk da haka, tufafinta masu kyau da launin madara ba su yi wa matan garin ba, kuma ba da daɗewa ba ta sami masu siyan kwalban kirim mai kyau a cikin kayanta. Ta hango kasuwa inda ta fara yin nata. Wani muhimmin sinadari na kirim ɗin, lanolin, yana nan a shirye.

Coleraine, a yankin Yammacin Victoria, inda kawunta mai shago ne, wataƙila ya kasance "wuri mai ban tsoro" amma ta kasance gida ga kimanin mutane miliyan 75 tumakin da ke fitar da lanolin mai yawa. Waɗannan tumakin su ne arzikin ƙasar kuma tarin merinos na Gundumar Yamma sun samar da mafi kyawun ulu a ƙasar. Don ɓoye warin lanolin mai ƙarfi, Rubinstein ya gwada lavender, ɓawon pine, da furannin ruwa .

Rubinstein ta samu rashin jituwa da kawunta, amma bayan wani lokaci a matsayinta na mai kula da daji ta fara hidimar abinci a wurin shan shayi na Winter Garden da ke Melbourne . A can, ta sami wani mai sha'awar da ke son tara kuɗi don ƙaddamar da Crème Valaze ɗinta, wanda ake zargin ya haɗa da ganyen da aka shigo da su daga "daga tsaunukan Carpathian ". An sayar da ita kan pence goma kuma an sayar da ita kan shilling shida (pence 72). An san Rubinstein da Helena kawai, ba da daɗewa ba za ta iya buɗe shagon gyaran gashi a titin Collins mai tsada, tana sayar da kyau a matsayin kimiyya ga abokan cinikin da aka "gane" fatarsu kuma an "rubuta musu magani mai dacewa".

Sydney ce ta gaba, kuma cikin shekaru biyar, ayyukan Ostiraliya sun sami riba mai yawa don ba da kuɗin Salon de Beauté Valaze a Landan. Saboda haka, Rubinstein ta kafa ɗaya daga cikin kamfanonin kwalliya na farko a duniya. Kasuwancinta ya yi nasara sosai kuma daga baya a rayuwata, ta yi amfani da dukiyarta mai yawa don tallafawa cibiyoyin agaji a fannonin ilimi, fasaha, da lafiya.

Rubinstein ta faɗaɗa ayyukanta cikin sauri. A shekarar 1908, 'yar uwarta Ceska ta ɗauki nauyin gudanar da shagon Melbourne, kuma da dala 100,000, Rubinstein ta ƙaura zuwa Landan ta fara abin da zai zama kamfani na duniya. (Mata a wannan lokacin ba za su iya samun rancen banki ba, don haka kuɗin nata ne.)

Aure da yara - London da Paris

A shekarar 1908, ta auri ɗan jaridar Amurka ɗan asalin Poland Edward William Titus a Landan. Sun haifi 'ya'ya maza biyu, Roy Valentine Titus (London, Disamba 12, 1909 - New York, Yuni 18, 1989) da Horace Titus (London, Afrilu 23, 1912 - New York, Mayu 18, 1958). Daga ƙarshe suka ƙaura zuwa Paris inda ta buɗe salon gyaran gashi a shekarar 1912. Mijinta ya taimaka wajen rubuta tallan kuma ya kafa ƙaramin gidan buga littattafai, kamar yadda aka buga Lady Chatterley's Lover. kuma ya ɗauki hayar Samuel Putnam don fassara tarihin rayuwar Alice Prin (Kiki de Montparnasse), littafin tunawa da Kiki .

Rubinstein ta yi liyafar cin abinci mai tsada kuma ta shahara da yin barkwanci na apocryphal, kamar lokacin da jakadiyar Faransa mai maye ta nuna wa Edith Sitwell da ɗan'uwanta Sacheverell : Vos ancêtres ont brûlé Jeanne d'Arc! Rubinstein, wanda bai san Faransanci sosai ba, ya tambayi wani baƙo abin da jakadan ya ce. "Ya ce, 'Kakanninka sun ƙone Joan of Arc . ' Rubinstein ya amsa, "To, dole ne wani ya yi."

A wani fête kuma, Marcel Proust ya tambaye ta irin kayan shafa da Duchess za ta iya yi. Ta yi watsi da shi a takaice saboda "yana jin ƙamshin ƙura". Rubinstein ya tuna daga baya, "Ta yaya zan san zai shahara?"

Matsar zuwa Amurka

Helena Rubinstein na Paul César Helleu (1908)

Helena Rubinstein 1959 Gidan Tarihi na Fasaha na Tel Aviv

A lokacin barkewar Yaƙin Duniya na Ɗaya, ita da Titus suka ƙaura zuwa birnin New York, inda ta buɗe shagon gyaran gashi a shekarar 1915, wanda shi ne ginshiƙin wata sarka a faɗin ƙasar. Rubinstein ta buɗe kasuwar Amurka mara iyaka, kuma ta yi amfani da ita da kyau, duk da manyan masu fafatawa. Wannan shine farkon mummunan hamayyarta da wata mace mai suna Elizabeth Arden a masana'antar kayan kwalliya. Rubinstein da Arden, waɗanda suka mutu cikin watanni 18 da juna, sun kasance masu hawa kan jama'a. Dukansu sun san game da ingantaccen tallatawa da marufi mai tsada, jan hankalin masu kwalliya a cikin kayan kwalliya masu tsabta, ƙimar amincewa da shahararru, ƙimar da ake gani na tsadar farashi da kuma haɓaka kimiyyar fata ta ƙarya. Gasar da Arden ta daɗe tana rayuwa. Rubinstein ta ce game da abokin hamayyarta, "Da marufi da kayana, da mun iya mulkin duniya."

Daga shekarar 1917, Rubinstein ta ɗauki nauyin kera da rarraba kayayyakinta da kuma rarraba su a duk faɗin ƙasar. "Ranar Kyau" a cikin shaguna daban-daban ta sami babban nasara. Hoton Rubinstein da aka ce ta yi a cikin tallanta ya kasance na wani nau'in mannequin na tsakiyar shekaru tare da kamannin Al'umma .

A shekarar 1928, ta sayar da kasuwancin Amurka ga Lehman Brothers akan dala miliyan 7.3, ($ miliyan 127 a shekarar 2022). Bayan fara Babban Matsalar Tattalin Arziki, ta sayi hannun jarin da ba shi da amfani a ƙasa da dala miliyan 1 kuma daga ƙarshe ta ƙara darajar kamfanin zuwa dala miliyan 100, ta kafa shaguna da shaguna a kusan biranen Amurka goma sha biyu. Wannan labarin, da farkon aikin kasuwancin Rubinstein, ya kasance batun shari'ar Makarantar Kasuwanci ta Harvard kwanan nan. Wurin shakatawa na baya-bayan nan a 715 Fifth Avenue ya haɗa da gidan abinci, wurin motsa jiki da kafet na mai zane Joan Miró . Ta ba wa mai fasaha 'yar Spain Salvador Dalí izinin tsara ƙaramin foda da kuma hoton kanta a shekarar 1943, mai taken Princess Arthchild Gourielle-Helena Rubinstein . Mai zane-zanen Amurka Andy Warhol ya zana hoton Rubinstein mai salo a Kyoto, Japan a 1956. Sauran masu zane-zanen da suka zana hotonta sune Graham Sutherland a 1957 don Gidauniyar Helena Rubinstein, wacce yanzu take cikin Gidan Tarihi na Ƙasa na Ostiraliya, Marie Laurencin a 1934 (yanzu tana cikin Gidan Tarihi na Ƙasa na Hotuna (Amurka), Raoul Dufy (1930), Roberto Montenegro (1941). Bayan ziyarar Rubinstein ta ƙarshe zuwa Ostiraliya, William Dobell ya zana jerin hotuna takwas a 1957.

Saki da sake aure

Rubinstein da Yarima Gurielli-Tchkonia a shekarar 1938)

Bayan rabuwarta, a shekarar 1938 Helena ta auri Yarima Artchil Gourielli-Tchkonia (wani lokacin ana rubuta Courielli-Tchkonia; an haife ta a Georgia, 18 ga Fabrairu, 1895, ta mutu a birnin New York, 21 ga Nuwamba, 1955), wanda da'awarsa ta aure ga sarakunan Georgia ta samo asali ne daga an haife shi memba na dangin Guria mai daraja, wanda hakan ya jawo hankalin saurayin mai hazaka ya ɗauki ainihin laƙabin kakarsa, wacce aka haifa a matsayin Gimbiya Gourielli .

Gourielli-Tchkonia ta girmi Rubinstein da shekaru 23. Saboda sha'awar samun sarauta, Rubinstein ta bi wannan kyakkyawan mutumin da himma kuma ta sanya wa layin kayan kwalliya na maza suna bayan kamanninta na ƙuruciya. Wasu sun yi iƙirarin cewa auren wata dabara ce ta tallatawa, ciki har da yadda Rubinstein ta iya bayyana kanta a matsayin Helena Princess Gourielli.

Rubinstein ta ɗauki abincin rana cike da kayan aiki kuma ta kasance mai yawan kuɗi a fannoni da yawa, amma ta sayi kayan sawa na zamani da kayan ado masu daraja da kayan daki. Ta kafa Helena Rubinstein Pavilion na Fasaha ta Zamani a Gidan Tarihi na Fasaha na Tel Aviv kuma a shekarar 1957 ta kafa Kwalejin Koyar da Fasaha ta Matafiya ta Helena Rubinstein a Ostiraliya. A shekarar 1953, ta kafa Gidauniyar Helena Rubinstein mai taimakon jama'a don samar da kuɗi ga ƙungiyoyi masu ƙwarewa a fannin lafiya, binciken lafiya da gyaran hali.

A shekarar 1959, Rubinstein ya wakilci masana'antar kayan kwalliya ta Amurka a bikin baje kolin kasa na Amurka da aka yi a Moscow.

Ma'aikatanta suna kiranta da "Madam", ta guji yin hira marasa amfani, ta ci gaba da kasancewa mai himma a cikin kamfanin a tsawon rayuwarta, har ma daga gadonta na rashin lafiya, kuma ta yi aiki tare da danginta a kamfanin.

Mutuwa da gado

Rubinstein ta mutu a ranar 1 ga Afrilu, 1965, sakamakon dalilai na halitta kuma an binne ta a Makabartar Mount Olivet da ke Queens . An yi gwanjon wasu daga cikin kadarorinta, ciki har da na Afirka da na kyawawan kayayyaki, kayan daki na Lucite, da kayan daki na Victorian da aka yi da shunayya, a shekarar 1966 a Parke-Bernet Galleries da ke birnin New York.

Ɗaya daga cikin maganganun Rubinstein da yawa shine: "Babu mata marasa kyau, sai dai masu kasala." An yi nazari kan wani bincike na ilimi game da shagunan kwalliya na musamman da kuma yadda suka yi tasiri ga iyakokin ra'ayi a lokacin tsakanin kayan kwalliya, gidajen adana kayan fasaha, cikin gida da kuma nau'ikan zamani ta Marie J. Clifford. Wani fim mai tsayin gaske, The Powder & the Glory (2009) na Ann Carol Grossman da Arnie Reisman, ya yi cikakken bayani game da hamayyar da ke tsakanin Rubinstein da Elizabeth Arden .

A cikin littafinta mai suna Ugly Beauty, Ruth Brandon ta bayyana tsarin aikinta:

Ta san yadda ake tallata - ta amfani da 'kwafin tsoro tare da ɗan ɓacin rai' - kuma ta gabatar da manufar nau'ikan fata 'matsala'. Ta kuma fara amfani da kimiyyar ƙarya a tallan, tana sanya rigar dakin gwaje-gwaje a cikin tallace-tallace da yawa, duk da cewa horon da ta samu ya kasance na tsawon watanni biyu na yawon shakatawa na cibiyoyin kula da fata na Turai. Ta san yadda ake sarrafa damuwar matsayin masu amfani, haka kuma: Idan wani samfuri ya lalace da farko, za ta ƙara farashin don ƙara darajar da ake tsammani.

A shekarar 1973, an sayar da kamfanin Helena Rubinstein, Inc. ga Colgate-Palmolive . A shekarun 1980, alamar ta ɓace daga kasuwar Amurka. A shekarar 1984 L'Oréal ya saya ta. Karɓar L'Oreal ya haifar da babban abin kunya yayin da wanda ya kafa kamfanin, Eugène Schueller, ya kasance mai haɗin gwiwa mai himma a lokacin yaƙin, kuma bayan haka, L'Oreal ya shahara da ɗaukar tsoffin 'yan Nazi aiki a guje. Jacques Corrèze, wanda ya tsara karɓe ikon, yana ɗaya daga cikin waɗannan: ya kasance mai himma wajen kwace kadarorin Yahudawa a Paris. An sake ƙaddamar da alamar a kasuwar Amurka a shekarar 1999 amma ba ta da riba duk da cewa tana da farfadowa a Asiya, Turai, da Kudancin Amurka. An rufe ayyukan Amurka a shekarar 2003. Tun daga shekarar 2011, L'Oréal ta sake sanya kamfanin a matsayin kamfanin kula da fata mai inganci. Ya zuwa shekarar 2023, kayayyakin Helena Rubinstein masu tsada ba su samuwa a Amurka amma ana sayar da su a kasuwannin duniya.

An kuma san kyaututtukan L'Oréal-UNESCO For Women in Science Awards da Helena Rubinstein Women in Science Awards.

Gidauniyar Helena Rubinstein, wacce aka kafa a shekarar 1953, ta gudanar da ayyukanta har zuwa shekarar 2011, a ƙarshe ta rarraba kusan dala miliyan 130 a cikin shekaru sittin, musamman ga ilimi, fasaha, da ƙungiyoyin al'umma a birnin New York. Gidauniyar ta daɗe tana goyon bayan shirye-shiryen yara ga WNET, wani kamfanin PBS da ke da alaƙa da birnin New York.

Gidan Tarihi na Yahudawa na Manhattan ya dauki nauyin baje kolin "Helena Rubinstein: Kyakkyawar Ita Ce Ƙarfi", wasan kwaikwayo na farko da aka keɓe wa Rubinstein, daga 31 ga Oktoba, 2014, har zuwa 22 ga Maris, 2015.

Tallafi ga fasaha

An ba Erica McGilchrist kyautar Rubinstein Mural Prize sau ɗaya a shekarar 1958 saboda aikinta a Kwalejin Mata, Jami'ar Melbourne, sannan aka ba Frank Hodgkinson kyautar tallafin karatu ta Helena Rubinstein a shekarar 1958 da kuma Charles Blackman a shekarar 1960.

Kyautar Helena Rubinstein Portrait Prize kyauta ce ta shekara-shekara ta £300 don ɗaukar hoto daga wani mai zane ɗan ƙasar Australia, kuma galibi ana yin ta ne a gidan adana kayan tarihi na Claude Hotchin da ke Yammacin Ostiraliya.

A cikin al'adun jama'a

Dangane da littafin Woodhead, waƙar War Paint ta 2016 ta nuna yadda take fafatawa da mai fafatawa da Elizabeth Arden . Bayan kammala wasan kwaikwayo na Goodman Theatre na Chicago, shirin ya buɗe a Broadway a Nederlander Theatre a ranar 6 ga Afrilu, 2017, inda Patti LuPone ta fito a matsayin Rubinstein da Christine Ebersole a matsayin Arden.

Shirin barkwanci na Lip Service na fitaccen mawaƙin wasan kwaikwayo na Australiya John Misto ya ba da labarin rayuwa da aikin Rubinstein da kuma fafatawarta da Elizabeth Arden da Revlon. . An fara nuna fim ɗin Lip Service a ranar 26 ga Afrilu, 2017, a Park Theatre da ke Landan, ƙarƙashin taken Madame Rubinstein, kafin a buɗe shi a Sydney's Ensemble Theatre a watan Agusta na wannan shekarar. Miriam Margolyes ta fito a matsayin Rubinstein.

Duba kuma

 

• Tarihin kayan kwalliya
• List of Polish people § Kasuwanci