Maryamu Quant

 

Dame Barbara Mary Quant CH DBE FCSD RDI (11 February 1930 – 13 April 2023) was a British fashion designer and icon. She became an instrumental figure in the 1960s London-based Mod and youth fashion movements, and played a prominent role in London's Swinging Sixties culture. She was one of the designers who took credit for the miniskirt and hotpants. Ernestine Carter wrote: "It is given to a fortunate few to be born at the right time, in the right place, with the right talents. In recent fashion there are three: Chanel, Dior, and Mary Quant."

Rayuwa ta farko

An haifi Barbara Mary Quant a ranar 11 ga Fabrairu 1930 a Woolwich, London, 'yar Jack Quant da Mildred Jones. Iyayenta, wadanda dukansu sun fito ne daga iyalan ma'adinai na Welsh, sun sami tallafin karatu a makarantar sakandare kuma an ba su digiri na farko a Jami'ar Cardiff kafin su koma London don yin aiki a matsayin malamai. Tana da ƙaramin ɗan'uwa, John Antony Quant (wanda ya zama jami'in haƙori a cikin Royal Air Force), tare da wanda aka kwashe ta zuwa Kent a lokacin Yaƙin Duniya na Biyu.

Quant ya halarci Makarantar Sakandare ta Blackheath. Ga kwaleji, burinta shine ya yi karatun kayan ado; duk da haka, iyayenta sun hana ta daga wannan karatun, kuma a maimakon haka ta yi karatun zane-zane da ilimin fasaha a Kwalejin Goldsmiths wanda ta sami digiri a 1953. A cikin neman ƙaunarta ga kayan ado, bayan kammala karatunta, an koya mata Erik Braagaard, babban mai sayar da kayan kwalliya a kan titin Brook da ke kusa da Otal din Claridge.

Ayyukan tufafi

Mary Quant tufafin da aka zaba a matsayin Dress of the Year a 1963

An gabatar da Quant ga Archie McNair, wanda ke da kasuwancin daukar hoto a kan King's Road, ta hanyar abokiyar juna. Shi da Alexander Plunket sun yi aiki tare da Quant don siyan Markham House, shagon da zai zama wurin shagon tufafinta, Bazaar. Mutanen biyu sun ba da gudummawar kudi ga aikin, kuma an sayi gidan Markham da £ 8,000. A lokacin sabuntawa, Quant ya yi aiki don gano masu samar da kaya, tare da albashi na £ 5 a kowane mako. Da zarar shagon ya buɗe, Quant da farko ya sayar da tufafin da aka samo daga masu siyarwa a sabon shagon ta a King's Road. Abubuwan da suka fi ƙarfin zuciya a cikin tarin ta sun fara samun karin hankali daga kafofin watsa labarai kamar Harper's Bazaar, kuma wani masana'anta na Amurka ya sayi wasu kayan ado. Saboda wannan kulawa da kuma ƙaunar da take da ita ga waɗannan salon da suka fi ƙarfin zuciya, ta yanke shawarar ɗaukar kayayyaki a hannunta. Da farko tana aiki da kanta, nan da nan ta dauki ma'aikatan injiniya kaɗan; a shekarar 1966 tana aiki tare da jimlar masana'antun 18. Mai tsara kansa wanda aka yi wahayi zuwa gare shi ta hanyar al'adun "Chelsea Set" na masu fasaha da masu zaman kansu, ƙirar Quant sun fi haɗari fiye da daidaitattun salon lokacin. Zane-zane na Quant sun sauya salon daga ma'auni na lokacin yaƙi na ƙarshen 1940s zuwa makamashi na sauye-sauyen al'adu na 1950s da 1960. Ta adana abubuwan ta asali a cikin launuka da alamu, kamar su tights masu launi.

Tasirin Quant ba kawai ya fito ne daga ƙirar ta musamman ba; a cikin shagon ta ta kirkiro yanayi na musamman, gami da kiɗa, abin sha, da sa'o'i masu tsawo waɗanda suka yi kira ga matasa. Wannan yanayin ya kasance na musamman ga masana'antar, saboda ya bambanta da shagunan sashen tsofaffi da kuma wuraren da ba a iya isa su ba waɗanda ke da kasuwar kayan ado. Hotunan taga tare da samfuran da ke cikin siffofi masu ban sha'awa sun kawo hankali sosai ga shagon ta, inda mutane sukan daina kallon abubuwan da ba su da kyau. Ta bayyana cewa "A cikin kwanaki 10, ba mu da wani abu na asali na asali".

A wani lokaci a ƙarshen shekarun 1950 da farkon shekarun 1960, Quant na ɗaya daga cikin masu zanen kaya biyu na London da ke ba da tufafin matasa ga matasa. Sauran ita ce Kiki Byrne, wacce ta bude kantinta a kan King's Road a gasar kai tsaye tare da Quant.

A shekara ta 1966, an kira Quant daya daga cikin "masu juyin juya halin zamani" a New York ta hanyar Women's Wear Daily, tare da Edie Sedgwick, Tiger Morse, Pierre Cardin, Paco Rabanne, Rudi Gernreich, André Courrèges, Emanuel Ungaro, Yves Saint Laurent da Baby Jane Holzer .

Quant da miniskirt

Jersey minidress ta Mary Quant, ƙarshen shekarun 1960

Miniskirt, wanda aka bayyana a matsayin daya daga cikin ma'anar kayan ado na shekarun 1960, yana daya daga cikin tufafin da aka fi danganta da Quant. Duk da yake ana yawan ambaton ta a matsayin mai kirkirar salon, wasu sun kalubalanci wannan da'awar. Marit Allen, 'yar jarida ce ta zamani kuma edita ce ta shafuka masu tasiri na "Young Ideas" na UK <i id="mwww">Vogue</i>, ta bayyana cewa wani mai tsara kayan ado na Burtaniya, John Bates, maimakon Quant ko André Courrèges, shine asalin mahaliccin miniskirt. Sauran sun yaba wa Courrèges da kirkirar salon.

Quant daga baya ya ce: "Yana da 'yan mata a kan King's Road [a lokacin "Swinging London" scene] wadanda suka kirkiro miniskirt. Ina yin sauki, matashi, tufafi masu sauki, wanda za ku iya motsawa, wanda za ka iya gudu da tsalle kuma za mu sa su tsawon da abokin ciniki yake so. Na sa su gajere sosai kuma kwastomomi za su ce, 'Shorter, ya fi guntu mai kyau a cikin salon su, Mini, kuma ya lura da kyawawan halayensu mai ban sha'awa.

In addition to the miniskirt, Quant is often credited with inventing the coloured and patterned tights that tended to accompany the garment, although their creation is also attributed to the Spanish couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga, who offered harlequin-patterned tights in 1962, or to John Bates. 

A ƙarshen shekarun 1960, Quant ya ba da miniskirts waɗanda suka kasance farkon hotpants kuma sun zama alamar kayan ado ta Burtaniya. A shekara ta 1967 ta tsara berets a cikin launuka goma sha biyu don kamfanin kawunan Burtaniya Kangol . Quant's berets, featuring daisy logo, suna cikin tarin ta a Victoria da Albert Museum. A cikin shekarun 1970s da 1980s ta mai da hankali kan kayan gida da kayan shafawa maimakon kawai layin tufafinta, gami da duvet, wanda ta yi iƙirarin ta ƙirƙira.

A cikin 1988, Quant ya tsara ciki na Mini (1000) Designer (wanda aka fi sani da Mini Quant, an canza sunan lokacin da aka saita sigogi masu shahara game da samun sunan Quant a kan mota). Ya ƙunshi kujerun baki da fari tare da jan gyare-gyare. Belin wurin zama sun ja, kuma kujerun tuki da fasinjoji suna da sa hannun Quant a saman hagu. Jirgin motar yana da sa hannun Quant kuma lambar hatimi tana da "Mary Quant" da aka rubuta akan sunan sa hannu. Hasken wuta, arches na ƙafa, ƙofar ƙofa da bumpers duk sun kasance "mai launin toka", maimakon mafi yawan chrome ko baƙar fata. An saki dubban biyu a Burtaniya a ranar 15 ga Yuni 1988, kuma an saki wasu zuwa kasuwannin kasashen waje; duk da haka, lambobin waɗannan suna da wuyar zuwa. Mini na musamman ya zo a cikin launuka biyu na jiki, jet baki da fararen lu'u-lu'u.

Rayuwa ta mutum

Quant ta sadu da mijinta na gaba kuma abokin kasuwanci, Alexander Plunket Greene, jikan mawaƙin Irish Harry PlunketGreene, a cikin 1953. Sun yi aure daga 1957 har zuwa mutuwarsa a 1990, kuma suna da ɗa, Orlando, wanda aka haifa a 1970.

Quant ya mutu a gida a Surrey a ranar 13 ga Afrilu 2023, yana da shekaru 93.